I boiled my egg this morning. The apartment was suffering from the lack of an egg-cup but I improvised with a measuring spoon, and felt proud of my ingenuity.
I was not due to my initial destination until 12.30pm EDT so I made my slow way west across town, stopping in Washington Square and not asking any questions about anything while I was there.
My destination was to be the 9/11 Museum and Workshop, which is curated by Gary Marlon Suson. Gary has become something of a family friend after my sister, and brother-in-law visited his museum towards the end of 2022. As such I have him on “WhatsApp”, so although he wasn’t to run the tour today he was to come by so I could finally meet him in person.
En-route I had a message from Gary to speak to him immediately, this I did. The tour would start 15 minutes later than thought due to an issue at the museum. This was not a problem for me per se, but Gary was concerned about his other guests attending the tour. He tasked me with passing on the message, something I was only to happy to do.
There was indeed a group outside the building when I arrived, but when I spoke to them they looked at me as if I was insane. I guess that when a guy in a funny hat, with an even funnier accent randomly starts talking to you in the middle of New York City, then this is quite unusual and potentially intimidating.
It turned out the real reason for the confusion was that they didn’t speak English. I managed to glean that French was the language and while I have no French whatsoever, I do have “Google Translate”. his was used to pass on the message. I also informed the other family who had arrived. Will the tour guide joined us shortly after. Gil and Nancy joined me too.
The tour started with a video explaining that Gary had been appointed the official photographer for the Fire Department New York after the 9/11 disaster. They wanted the rescue effort to be properly documented for the families of the victims. This Gary did, taking many beautiful, and often harrowing photographs of the “Ground Zero” site over the next few months. He was not allowed to publish the photographs, or hand them to any media organisations. It was just for the FDNY, and the families. This permission came later, such that Gary was able to open this very museum.
The fact that Gary is by profession a fashion/celebrity photographer is an interesting dimension here. For a start, this meant that he habitually used a larger, and higher resolution film size. He also approached the photography form perhaps a more “artistic” angle that a press photographer would. An example of this was his extensive use of “sepia” tones, picked as being less garish than colour, and also matching the dust and colour of the site at the time.
Gary also had many artefacts from the site, either donated or loaned to him. This included a section of ‘plane fuselage from the Boeing 767-200ER that was American Airlines Flight 11. This was the plane that crashed into the North Tower. Seeing items such as this, as well as artefacts more personally connected to the victims really made for a unique, and hands-on experience. It was very different to the “big” museum I had visited twice previously. I have it documented elsewhere the extend to which I found that museum somewhat overwhelming.
Gary’s museum by comparison was a much more gentle experience. It was also focussed on the more human aspect of the rescuers involved in finding remains – often of close friends, and colleagues. The fact that Gary himself came along was a big bonus. He was kind enough to stay long after other guests had gone chatting, and answering questions from me, Gil, and Nancy. He also furnished me with possibly the best burger I have ever tasted(“7th Street Burger”), and a signed copy of a book which includes a number of his photographs.
I would recommend this museum in the highest possible terms. If you are concerned about being overwhelmed, I can assure you that this is a very safe space to experience, and connect with images, and artefacts of the disaster. It is thoughtfully, and sensitively curated, and Gary is truly one of nature’s gentlemen. I will look forward to meeting him again sometime next week.
I am always a bit funny about taking photographs in museums, particularly museums on a sensitive subject so there are none here. You will just have to go and experience it for yourself. You can find out more and get tickets at https://groundzeromuseumworkshop.org. You can also check out the audio recordings from the museum on “TikTok” at https://www.tiktok.com/@911_museum_workshop.
After taking our leave, Gil, Nancy, and I took Gary’s recommendation of the nearby Chelsea Market. This was an old biscuit factory filled with traders, and food outlets. Gil, and Nancy were particularly excited to find “halva” being sold. This is a sweet based on sesame paste and was available in a variety of flavours. This we enjoyed with some hand-made “Dan Dan” noodles from another outlet. Both were delicious.
Nancy decided to take some respite from the heat at the hotel, so Gil and I took ourselves on the “A” train to High Street, DUMBO, Brooklyn. The name of this area stands for “Down Under Manhattan Bridge Overpass”, and it has a famous spot where people come to take a photo of said bridge, and the Empire State Building, which is visible under one of the archways. I took the opportunity to pose as a tourist, something I rarely do.
Back in Manhattan (“A” train, then “E” train) I took respite in the bar of Gil, and Nancy’s hotel while they readied themselves for dinner. It was a very relaxed place with light jazz playing over the speakers. I was reminded how very much New York can be EXACTLY like the movies. Sat at the bar, I felt I should be discussing my problems with a barkeep. Thankfully, I feel just right now that I haven’t any.
Our evening meal was taken at “See No Evil Pizza”, an establishment within a subway station. Drinks were then had at the bar next door, before relocating to a former “Speakeasy” called “The Flûte”. This location had a number of places where alcohol had been hidden during times of prohibition. The most notable of these was in the light fitting.
The dinner, and drinks were wonderful. The company was even better. Much world was set to rights. I felt this had been a wonderful day in this amazing city with some incredible people. Let’s celebrate the superlatives, they are all fabulously apt.
